A Modern Guide to Men’s Vests: A Brief History of the Waistcoat
From the red carpet to black-tie weddings to high school proms, men are once again donning the three-piece suit — jacket, trousers, and the ever-important vest. Also know as a waistcoat, if you prefer the traditional term, or a gilet if you have an English friend.
The history of the vest stretches back centuries, with origins in India and Persia before King Charles II made it an essential part of proper English dress in the 1600s. Back then, waistcoats were richly ornate — silk, velvet, lace, and embroidery marking a man’s status.
By the early 20th century, the vest shifted from statement to utility — worn more for warmth or a slimming layer beneath a blazer. Then, somewhere around the 1990s, a 90210 cast member regrettably ruined it for us all.
Until now.
Thankfully, the waistcoat is back — sharper, leaner, and more versatile than ever.
8 Types of Men’s Vests to Know
Today’s vests come in a range of silhouettes that complement everything from tailored suits to jeans and a sport coat.
The most common? A single-breasted, five- or six-button vest with pointed hems — flattering, elongating, and timeless.
But there’s room to explore: lapels, button counts, necklines, and fabric choices all change the tone. Below, we’ve outlined eight styles worth knowing.
5-Button Vest with Points
A timeless favorite featuring five buttons and “points” — the inverted triangles at the front hem that create a flattering, elongating effect on the torso. Classic and versatile, this style pairs effortlessly with a business suit, but transitions just as well with slacks or jeans for a refined casual look.
6-Button Vest with Points
A refined variation featuring six buttons for a slightly more elongated, streamlined silhouette. The extra button adds visual length through the body, making it an especially flattering choice for taller men or those seeking a longer line beneath a jacket.
5-Button Vest with Points & Lapel
A distinguished update to the classic vest, this style adds a peak or notch lapel—a versatile detail that brings polish and dimension. Traditionally, the lapel matches the body fabric, though contrasting materials like velvet or satin make it a strong choice for black-tie events. From casual refinement to formal occasions, it’s a confident piece for exploring personal style.
4-Button Horseshoe Vest with Points
A sleek, timeless style defined by its curved horseshoe neckline and four-button front. The shape creates an elegant line that frames a formal shirt beautifully—making this vest the perfect partner for a tuxedo or dinner jacket. Among vest styles, the horseshoe neckline remains the most formal and refined.
5-Button Straight Bottom Vest
A clean, classic style featuring five buttons and a straight-cut hem. The straight bottom offers balance for men with fuller builds, drawing the eye upward for a flattering effect. Streamlined and minimalist, it brings structure and sophistication to any three-piece suit.
4-Button Horseshoe Vest, Straight Bottom
A streamlined take on the traditional horseshoe vest, featuring a straight-cut hem in place of points. The curved neckline maintains its formal appeal, while the clean bottom edge offers a modern, understated finish—an elegant choice for tuxedos and eveningwear alike.
6 on 3 Shawl Lapel Vest, Straight Bottom
A refined double-breasted style defined by six buttons arranged in three balanced rows. The curved shawl lapel softens the structure, lending the piece a timeless, elegant edge. A superior choice for evening wear, this vest pairs perfectly with a tuxedo or dinner jacket—ideal for formal occasions that call for quiet sophistication.
8 on 4 Peak Lapel Vest, Straight Bottom
A bold, distinguished choice featuring eight buttons arranged in four precise rows. The sharp peak lapel draws the eye upward toward the shoulders, creating a confident and commanding silhouette. Traditionally reserved for formalwear, this style has recently reemerged in more versatile interpretations—bridging the gap between evening sophistication and modern statement dressing.
The Takeaway
Whether you prefer a minimalist vest that completes a classic three-piece look or a standout piece for your next black-tie event, one thing is clear: vests are back in rotation.
Still unsure which style suits you best?
Visit us in-store & our expert clothiers will help you find the right fit and fabric for your look.
